After years of planning, my parents and I finally set off on a long-awaited 2 1/2 week journey to Kenya. Remarkably, this marked my fourth visit to this incredible country, and there’s just something about its magic that keeps drawing us back. For this trip, we decided to revisit some old favorites, but also explore new destinations to keep the adventure fresh and exciting. With past experiences under our belt, we expected a more relaxed and reassuring trip, but one thing I’ve learned is that every safari in Kenya offers something new. Read on to get a day-by-day glimpse of our unforgettable adventure!
Day 1 & 2: A Journey from Chicago to Nairobi – From Snow to Sunshine
The day started with the usual Chicago chill, the bitter cold and recent snowfall reminding me that I was leaving behind the frozen streets for warmer adventures. We took the L to the airport, a quick and convenient ride to O’Hare where the excitement started to build. For this trip, we had very limited luggage—just a soft-sided duffle and a carry-on backpack. The duffle was checked, and everything else was packed in the carry-on, hoping it would all make it safely to Nairobi!
After checking in, we headed to the United Club for a quick bite before our 6:00 pm flight to Brussels. I’ll be honest, the food on the flight left much to be desired, but I ate it out of necessity. I was able to get some decent rest during the flight, catching a few hours of sleep in the window seat, which was a small blessing.
We landed in Brussels the next morning, and since I had never been to the city before, I had to grab my traditional travel magnet. I also treated myself to a delicious ham and cheese sandwich, a freshly toasted chocolate croissant (which, let’s be real, always tastes better in Europe), and some tea at Starbucks before boarding the next leg of the journey. After a slight delay due to some plane defrosting, we were on our way to Nairobi.
The flight from Brussels to Nairobi was smooth, with me catching some sleep during the first half of the journey and enjoying a few movies for the rest. Just before landing, we were served a surprisingly good little pizza, which hit the spot after the long journey. By the time we landed, it was around 9:30 pm, over 24 hours since we had left Chicago.
Arriving in Nairobi, we had the full Africa experience right away— deplaning on the tarmac and hopping onto a bus to get to the arrivals area. It was definitely a more “bare bones” experience than I was used to, and it really hit me that we were finally here. As we made our way through immigration, we met our representative, who greeted us with a lovely rose (since it was Valentine’s Day), a warm gesture that made the long journey feel even more special.
We were fortunate enough to be directed to the Premier Line for faster processing (thankfully, because the regular line was long, and the process took quite a while with fingerprint scans and security checks). The highlight of the night was when our bags arrived safely—always a relief after such a long haul. Our driver, Matthew, greeted us and drove us to the Fairmont Norfolk Hotel in central Nairobi.
On the drive to the hotel, I couldn’t help but notice how much Nairobi had developed since my last trip in 2021. The road infrastructure was a huge improvement from my first visit in 2009, when dirt roads were the norm, and you had to keep the windows up to avoid people reaching in to beg for money. Now, modern highways made for a much smoother ride into the city, and I could see just how far Nairobi had come.
We arrived at the hotel around 10:30 pm, dropped off our bags in our rooms, and headed straight to Cin Cin—the hotel bar—for a well-deserved nightcap. We couldn’t resist trying the local Tusker Beer, which was refreshing after the long travel, and paired it with the famous double burger. It was, hands down, one of the best burgers I’ve ever had, and it lived up to the hype from my previous visits.
After indulging in the meal, it was time for a quick shower and some much-needed rest.
Day 3: Relaxing at The Norfolk in Nairobi – A Step Back in Time (Fairmont at the Norfolk)
Jet lag hit me hard, and by 4:30 am, I was wide awake. I spent some time watching TV before finally getting up to explore the grounds of the Fairmont Norfolk Hotel. The hotel, which has been around since 1904, still looked just as I remembered—lush courtyards, exotic plants, and vintage cars scattered about. It was fun to think about the history here, especially since my parents stayed here 30 years ago, and I visited with them in 2009. We worked to recreate some of the old photos we had from our previous trips which was very fun.
We headed to Lord Delamere Terrace for brunch. The space had been updated with plexiglass and gates for security, but it still offered the same great views and food. The brunch spread was fantastic, featuring local fruits like mango, papaya, and passion fruit, as well as a waffle & crepe station and, of course, Kenyan tea—just as delicious as I remembered.
After brunch, I took a quick power nap to recover from the lack of sleep. Later, I spent a relaxing afternoon by the hotel pool. It was so nice to be outside with 80-degree sunny weather, especially considering it was snowy and single digits back home! The water in the pool felt amazing, and it was a great spot to catch up on some journaling and reading.
After the pool, I headed back to the room, had a great shower, and slipped into my green dress for dinner. We went to Tatu, the steakhouse restaurant at the Norfolk, and I was so excited to dive into their menu. I ordered the crab, shrimp, and coconut soup, which was absolutely delicious. When I saw they had Lomo Saltado—my favorite beef stir fry from Peru—I had to try it. It was good, but not quite what I expected; it was more of a stew than a stir fry. By that point, though, jet lag was starting to hit me hard. I could feel myself fading fast, so I decided to call it a night. I went to bed at 8pm, which worked out fine since we were getting up at 5am to head out for our safari!
Day 4: The Safari & Adventures Begin (Ol Donyo Lodge)
I woke up feeling surprisingly refreshed despite the early 5 am start. Saying farewell to the Fairmont Norfolk, we were off on our next adventure: starting our Kenyan safari at Ol Donyo Lodge! Matthew drove us to Wilson Airport, where we’d catch our Safarilink flight to Ol Donyo, a remote lodge nestled between Amboseli and Tsavo on the southeast side of Kenya.
Wilson Airport, as quaint as I remembered, was small and charming, complete with a tiny coffee shop in the terminal. We boarded our tiny plane along with another family heading to the same camp. The 45-minute flight was quick and smooth, and the best part? We got an incredible view of Mount Kilimanjaro as we flew by—it was even more majestic from the air.
Our landing was on a dirt strip, where we were greeted by our guide, Dan, who took us on a game drive on the way to the lodge. Within minutes, we spotted a family of giraffes, including a baby, gracefully grazing. The camp offers high-end camera equipment for guests to use, so I immediately grabbed one to capture the beauty of these majestic creatures.
We made a stop for some coffee, tea, and cookies that our guide Dan packed, soaking in the surroundings. The land is a private Maasai-owned property, and Ol Donyo Lodge is the only lodge on the property. All funds from the lodge go back to the local Maasai communities, and they employ local people, which makes the stay feel even more special.
The game drive continued, and we were lucky enough to see a male lion resting in the bushes. Soon after, we spotted one of the “Big Tuskers” of the area—an enormous elephant with massive tusks.
As we arrived at Ol Donyo Lodge, I was in awe of its beauty. The open-air main lounge area was perfect for enjoying the stunning surroundings, and the rooms were spacious and luxurious. Each room had a private plunge pool, and the highlight? The rooftop, where you can sleep under the stars—talk about a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
One of the coolest features of the lodge is the “bunker,” a below-ground hide overlooking a watering hole. This is the only water source in the area, so it attracts a constant stream of wildlife. We spent some time there watching elephants and giraffes come to drink—it felt like a true safari experience right from the comfort of the lodge.
We then sampled the lodge’s signature drink, the Donyo Dawa—a refreshing mix of lime, honey, vodka, and mint. It was the perfect way to cool off. For lunch, we enjoyed a delicious spread of fresh salads, homemade focaccia, fish cakes, and a cheese tray for dessert.
The afternoon was blissfully relaxing. After lunch, I took a dip in the plunge pool and spent some time journaling and going through the morning’s photos. It was the perfect way to unwind after an exciting day of wildlife sightings and adventure.
We left for our evening game drive and first stumbled upon an elephant eating acacia trees about five feet away. It was incredible to watch him up close, and for a moment, I was worried he might charge the vehicle, but he didn’t seem to mind us at all. Next, we found a group of three male cheetah brothers and watched them for a while as they slept, occasionally popping their heads up.
We then made our way to the top of a hill for sundowners and snacks—of course, I had a Tusker beer. The sunset was absolutely breathtaking. Afterward, we returned to where the cheetahs had been and were lucky enough to see them get up and move around. It felt so special to spend so much time with my favorite animal, especially on the first day of safari!
On our way back to camp, we spotted a very rare caracal, a small nocturnal African cat we had never seen before. Our guide said it was an exceptionally rare sighting.
For dinner, we had asparagus soup paired with South African wine, and I even got the chance to make my own pizza with the chef and cook it in their oven. It was such a fun experience! It was nice to end the day with a shower and a look back at all the incredible photos from such an unforgettable first day out in the bush.
Day 5: Another lucky sighting day (Ol Donyo Lodge)
I woke up early at 5:30 am, ready for the morning game drive. It was a crisp, peaceful morning, and to my delight, we had fresh fruit, banana muffins, and tea to go—such a thoughtful touch. Our first sighting was an owl perched on a branch as the sky began to lighten. It felt magical to start the day like this.
Dan, our guide, spotted lion tracks on the road, and we followed them to a stunning sight—a lion family feasting on a baby giraffe. There were three playful cubs, an older lioness, and the mother lioness, all enjoying their long-awaited meal. We were probably no more than 10 feet away, and the lions didn’t mind our presence at all. It was absolutely incredible to watch them so close. I managed to snap some breathtaking photos and videos during the hour we spent there.
As the lions tried to drag the giraffe into the bushes to hide it, they were startled by a motorcycle passing by. Not long after, a group of hyenas appeared, lurking nearby, waiting for their turn. The scene was intense, but there was also something heartbreaking as we saw the mother giraffe standing at a distance, seemingly mourning her lost baby.
After leaving the lions, we drove up a hill for a brief stop. We had snacks and took in the stunning view of the savannah—an incredibly peaceful moment before continuing on.
Next, we stumbled upon a surprise bush breakfast set up for us under a tree, complete with a picturesque table and a “loo with a view.” The chef made us scrambled eggs and a full English breakfast, and there was even champagne, which they popped open with a knife—just like something out of a movie!
We returned to camp afterward for a relaxing morning, going through the photos from the adventure and enjoying the view of elephants and giraffes at the camp’s watering hole. It was the perfect way to unwind after such an unforgettable start to the day.
After a thrilling morning, we headed to lunch, which was both healthy and delicious. The Moroccan chickpeas and squash were a standout. We then enjoyed a tour of the kitchen and garden with the head chef, learning about the fresh, local ingredients used in the dishes.
In the afternoon, we took a refreshing dip in the plunge pool before getting ready for the evening activities. On our way out of the lodge, we were lucky enough to see elephants and giraffes drinking from the watering hole—a beautiful sight to start the evening.
We then embarked on a 3-mile walk across the open savannah with our guide. The feeling of walking through the vast, untouched landscape was surreal, almost like we had stepped into a movie. At the end of the walk, we enjoyed sundowners as the sun set in a stunning display of colors. On our way back to camp, we even spotted the same lion family from the morning, now resting peacefully—what a perfect full-circle moment!
Back at camp, we gathered around the fire pit to relax before heading to dinner in the charming wine cellar room. The meal was delicious—beef samosas to start, followed by chicken and vegetable coconut curry, and baklava for dessert. After such a lucky and memorable day, I was ready to head to bed, tired but completely content.
Day 6: Kilimanjaro Views and Maasai Traditions (Ol Donyo Lodge)
I woke up feeling rested and ready for another adventure on the African plains. The day started off crisp and clear, and I was thrilled to see Mount Kilimanjaro towering in the distance, its snow-capped peak slowly coming into focus as the morning light brightened. The sight was absolutely surreal—there’s something so majestic about witnessing Africa’s tallest mountain up close.
After a short while, we stopped for a bush breakfast, perched on a hill that offered a perfect view of Kilimanjaro. The spread was as incredible as the view—fresh juice, sweet fruit, flaky croissants, warm cinnamon rolls, and the highlight: a spinach and feta frittata that was absolutely delicious. The peaceful stillness of the savannah with the mountain in the backdrop made it an unforgettable experience.
We continued our game drive, and the wildlife sightings kept coming. Zebras grazed lazily, wildebeest marched in groups, and we were fortunate enough to spot a massive tusker—a truly awe-inspiring sight. Giraffes towered above the bushes, and even an ostrich wandered by, looking comically out of place in the wide-open savannah. The variety of life here is incredible.
Later in the morning, we visited a local Maasai village, where we were greeted by a group of women singing and dancing in vibrant celebration. The energy was infectious, and we were quickly pulled into their traditional prayer, learning about their customs, rituals, and rich cultural heritage. The backdrop of the village was a stunning view of Kilimanjaro which was beautiful, blending the culture with the natural beauty of Africa. We also had the chance to step inside one of their “mud huts” – which are made of cow dung and branches, but surprisingly cozy and well-equipped with everything they need.
The village had a garden where they grow kale and other vegetables to help sustain the community. We even got a glimpse of their water tank, which ensures the village has access to clean water, a crucial lifeline in this area. The women were selling handmade beaded crafts, and I couldn’t resist picking up a bracelet and a necklace as a souvenir to remember this special visit.
After leaving the Maasai village, we headed back to camp, where I indulged in a refreshing “Donyo Dawa” cocktail and enjoyed a healthy, satisfying lunch. The lamb meatballs in a rich curry sauce were particularly delicious—such a treat after a morning of exploring!
The afternoon was a bit more laid-back. I took a refreshing dip in the plunge pool to cool off and then settled into a cozy spot to catch up on my journaling and go through the photos and videos from the morning’s adventure.
Before dinner, we made our way down to the bunker where the watering hole is, and had the incredible experience of watching an elephant drink and bathe, all from ground level—a truly unique perspective! Afterward, we headed back to the main area where I grabbed some refreshing iced tea to cool off (it had been quite hot). We then enjoyed dinner in the cozy library area. The starter was a delicious carrot soup with chickpeas, followed by a hearty main of sirloin steak with mushroom sauce, au gratin potatoes, and roasted vegetables. Every bite was exquisite.
Feeling the heat from the day, I decided to return to my room early to relax and get some rest before our flight to Lewa, the next stop on our safari. Ol Donyo Lodge has been absolutely fantastic, and I’ve loved every moment of this experience!
Day 7: Returning to Lewa – Warm Welcome Home (Sirikoi Lodge)
Waking up this morning, I couldn’t help but feel completely rested after my unexpected oversleep. It was a peaceful start to the day, and I took my time finishing up packing before we headed off from Ol Donyo to our next camp, Sirikoi, in the northern part of Kenya at Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. It’s always a special place, and I’ve had the privilege of visiting here four times now.
Breakfast was perfect — avocado toast with poached eggs and bacon, my favorite way to start the day. Once we were all packed, we drove out to the dirt airstrip, where we bid farewell to Dan, our wonderful guide. I’ll miss his insightful knowledge and hospitality. As we took off, we had a beautiful view of Mt. Kilimanjaro in the distance, which felt like a bonus for our departure.
Our first flight to Nairobi was smooth, taking about an hour, and from there, we hopped on a 50-minute flight to Lewa. The flight wasn’t the smoothest, but the sight of Mt. Kenya, towering majestically in the distance, made up for the bumpy ride.
When we arrived at Lewa, we were greeted by Legei, our guide for the stay, dressed in traditional Maasai wear. On the drive to the camp, we had our first wildlife sightings — zebras, Grevy zebras, impalas, and rhinos. The rhinos were especially heartwarming to see, all lying peacefully under the trees, with one adorable baby in tow. It’s reassuring to hear that Lewa has had zero poaching incidents since our last visit in 2021, and knowing they’re dedicated to the protection of these magnificent creatures makes it all the more special.
Arriving at Sirikoi lodge felt like coming home. It’s as luxurious and elegant as I remembered, but still with that wild charm. After a warm welcome, we had our camp briefing and then settled into our luxury tents. For lunch, we dined at the main pavilion, overlooking a watering hole where a mama elephant and her baby were having a drink.
At lunch we also got to see Sue Roberts again, the owner of Sirikoi, and she gave us a warm greeting. Her dog, Rona, came running straight to me, jumping up in greeting — it was so sweet, especially since we saw her as a tiny puppy during our last visit in 2021. Lunch was delightful — roasted duck, fresh salads, warm bread, and a cheese plate that hit the spot. Of course, the delicious meal was completed with a decadent dessert of brownies and ice cream.
The rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing in the cool breeze of our tents. Lewa is nestled at about 5,500 feet so it is a little cooler here than at Ol Donyo and way less bugs (yay)!
In the afternoon, I indulged in a lovely tea break, savoring a cup of rich Kenyan black tea paired with a delightful slice of clementine cake. The cake was absolutely delicious, and it was the perfect pick-me-up before our next adventure.
We then set off for our afternoon game drive, where we were treated to an incredible sighting of rhinos — including an adorable baby and a few in the middle of a playful fight. We also spotted a massive herd of elephants with their babies, a group of Grevy’s zebras, a herd of water buffalo, and a majestic oryx. It was amazing to see so many incredible creatures in one outing.
Our drive took us to the top of a hill for sundowners, where we toasted with a cold Tusker beer and munched on chips while watching the sun dip below the horizon. The colors in the sky were absolutely stunning.
On our dark drive back to camp, we had a slightly thrilling encounter as a few rhinos crossed the road, getting incredibly close to our jeep. It was a little nerve-wracking, but such an unforgettable experience. We also spotted a solitary owl perched nearby, its eyes glowing in the darkness.
Back at camp, the dining platform was lit up beautifully with the warm glow of lanterns and a cozy fire crackling. I grabbed a glass of wine and joined Sue and the other guests as we shared stories about our day. It was Kenyan night for dinner, and the buffet of local dishes was absolutely delicious — everything I’ve always wanted to try!
Just as we were about to head back to our tents, the staff surprised us with a decadent chocolate cake topped with raspberry preserves as a welcome back treat. It was such a special gesture, and the cake was incredible — fresh, homemade, and the perfect end to an unforgettable day.
I retired to my tent, feeling incredibly grateful for the day and looking forward to what the next few days at Lewa will bring.
Day 8: Lions, Bush Breakfast, and Reconnecting at Lewa (Sirikoi Lodge)
I woke up this morning at 5:30 am to a warm, welcoming tray of tea, cookies, and fresh fruit delivered to my tent. It’s a small luxury that made the early start feel even more special. After a quick breakfast in the comfort of my tent, we hopped into the jeep and set off, the sky still dim with the first hints of dawn. As we made our way to Simba Ridge, where the lions are known to hang out near Lewa HQ, we couldn’t have asked for a better start.
We were incredibly lucky to spot six lion cubs, two lionesses, and two male lions walking down the road in front of us. Being so close to them, especially this early in the safari, was a rare treat. They were majestic, and the moment felt surreal as they sauntered by, so close that we could almost reach out and touch them.
After our thrilling lion sighting, we continued our drive, encountering more wildlife: waterbuck, water buffalo, and zebra. It wasn’t long before we found ourselves at a surprise bush breakfast set up under a tree in the savannah. The spread was absolutely delicious, with scrambled eggs, crepes, bacon, sausage, and a fresh avocado, onion, and tomato salad. The blackberries were a standout, so sweet and perfectly ripe. Our guide, Legei, joined us, and we had the privilege of hearing his fascinating stories about his upbringing and becoming a Maasai warrior. While we ate, we kept an eye on the distant rhinos, grazing peacefully up on the hill.
After breakfast, we made our way back to camp, spotting more Grevy zebras, giraffes, and a herd of elephants. There was even a baby elephant, its legs wobbly as it tried to keep up with the herd. The highlight of the return journey, however, was an unexpected sighting as we neared camp. A lioness popped her head out of the tall grass, and as we got closer, we discovered the remains of a baby giraffe kill next to her. It seemed like she was waiting for her pride to return. We were so close to her, but she was completely unbothered by our presence, and the whole scene felt like a wild privilege to witness.
By the time we got back to camp, it was already noon. We were all ready for lunch, and it did not disappoint — a Mediterranean feast that included the best spanakopita I’ve ever had. For dessert, the chocolate log with cream and fresh blackberries was a perfect way to end the meal.
At 4pm, I took a break for a lovely tea, enjoying a rich cup of Kenyan black tea alongside a slice of chocolate walnut cake — the perfect treat to recharge. It was also a great opportunity to meet some of the other guests at Sirikoi, and to my surprise, I ran into our guide Ngila from our last stay here. It was incredibly special to reconnect with him and catch up on old memories.
Our afternoon game drive started off with a troop of baboons, and then, to our amazement, we spotted the same female lioness from earlier in the day, walking confidently across the savannah. It was crazy to see her again, and she was still carrying the air of authority from the kill we had witnessed. We continued on, seeing black rhinos, warthogs, and giraffes — all of them as magnificent as ever.
We were on the lookout for lions and, just as we thought we might have missed them, a fellow guide tipped us off to their location. It felt like a full-circle moment as we found the same family of lions we had seen in the morning. The drama unfolded before our eyes: when the male lion approached, the lionesses growled and pushed him away with a series of loud, commanding noises. The cubs, ever the curious ones, were in the middle of it all, playfully tumbling around while inspecting the jeeps up close. What an amazing display of wild power and family dynamics!
As we headed back to camp, we were greeted by Ian Craig, one of the founders of Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. It was such a pleasure to catch up with him, especially since my family has known him for over 30 years. After chatting by the fire, we sat down to a delicious dinner of vegetable soup and fish — honestly, some of the best I’ve ever had. The perfect end to a fantastic first full day at Lewa.
Now, as the day winds down, I’m already looking forward to tomorrow’s adventures. It’s been an incredible start, and I can’t wait to see what comes next!
The rest of the afternoon was blissful — I spent some time relaxing by the pool, cooling off in the refreshing water. I caught up on my journaling and went through the photos of the morning’s extraordinary encounters.
Day 9: Extraordinary Wildlife Encounters and Relaxing Moments (Sirikoi Lodge)
I woke up at 5:30 am again today to another lovely tray of tea, cookies, and fresh fruit. The cookies were a chewy cornflake raisin combination that was absolutely delicious! As the sun began to rise, painting the sky in shades of orange and red, I spotted a giraffe off in the distance — a perfect photo op that truly captured the magic of the early morning.
Right outside camp, we came across the same lioness from yesterday, still near her baby giraffe kill. She hadn’t eaten much the day before, so today she was feasting. It was surreal to see her again, this time in a more peaceful moment of nourishment.
We continued on our drive and were greeted by a mama elephant and her two babies, who passed so close to our car. They were so peaceful, almost as if they were aware of our presence but unfazed by it. The calmness of the moment was awe-inspiring.
Then, a small victory: I spotted lion cubs perched on a branch in the brush! It was a proud moment, especially knowing it was the same family we had seen the day before. Full circle! We were then tipped off about a cheetah sighting, and though we couldn’t get too close, we managed to see two cheetahs in the distance chasing down and killing a baby impala. I’ve never witnessed a live kill before, and it was both intense and incredible, even from afar through the binoculars. We also got a good look at a lone female cheetah resting on a hill, her eyes locked on the horizon as if deep in thought.
Later in the morning, we visited Lewa’s hand axe site, where ancient tools used by humans over a million years ago were still preserved. The history of it all felt humbling, grounding us in the deep connection between the land and its people.
Back at camp, we were welcomed by Kiko, the giraffe raised here at Sirikoi. He leaned down to let me touch his long neck, and we shared a playful moment as our guide interacted with him. There’s something magical about being so close to such a majestic creature.
For breakfast, we had eggs, muffins, fresh fruit, and more, all while watching a herd of elephants at the nearby watering hole. Afterward, we went on a tour of the back of the house, where we saw the organic garden, the new pickleball court under construction, and the kitchen where they cook and bake such delicious food. It’s inspiring to see how much they prioritize eco-friendly initiatives, like recycling glass and turning charcoal into vinegar.
Lunch was another highlight with cold avocado soup, similar to gazpacho, alongside a spread of fresh salads, beef, and banoffee pie — the perfect balance of flavors.
In the afternoon, I treated myself to an hour long Swedish massage, knowing all the proceeds go to support a local orphanage. It was incredibly relaxing, just what I needed. Afterward, I cooled off with a dip in the pool and enjoyed afternoon tea with lemon drizzle cake.
Though we skipped the afternoon game drive, we went out in the evening after dinner, when the landscape transforms into a dark and peaceful serenity.
Around the fire at the dining patio, I savored feta and coriander samosas paired with a refreshing Moscow mule. The sunset at camp was breathtaking, a perfect way to wind down. Dinner was a feast: perfectly cooked asparagus with creamy hollandaise sauce, followed by a rich Thai chicken curry, tender noodles, and sautéed veggies—absolutely delicious! For dessert, we indulged in warm, baked mangos.
We then set off for our evening game drive, and I was glad I brought my jacket—it was a bit chilly. Along the way, we spotted elephants, rhinos, hyenas, jackals, and a host of adorable bush babies. We’re still on the lookout for a leopard, though!
It’s a quick turnaround tonight with another early 6 a.m. game drive ahead. Can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings!
Day 10: Rare Leopard Sighting and Unforgettable Horseback Riding at Lewa (Sirikoi Lodge)
I woke up to the usual 5:30 am call today and was greeted with a tray of tea, fresh fruit, and the ever-delicious sugar cookies. We were out of camp before the sun made its grand entrance, and the sky was already painted in soft pastel hues. In the distance, elephants dotted the horizon, adding a sense of calm to the stillness of the early morning. As the sun crept higher, Mt. Kenya revealed itself in all its majesty, a true spectacle against the sky.
We then stumbled upon a breathtaking scene — a group of giraffes grazing peacefully with the mountain framed behind them like a perfect photograph. But the real surprise came next: seven lion cubs, playing and resting in the tall grass. They were eagerly looking out for their mother, who hadn’t returned yet. These cubs were different from the ones we had seen the past few days, and a few of them looked quite weak, which made me hope they would get the nourishment they needed soon. Watching them in their innocence and curiosity felt like a true privilege.
The rest of the drive was relatively quiet, but we still spotted some incredible wildlife, including rhinos, elephants, water buffalo, jackals, and even a warthog. There was one particularly mean-looking water buffalo that we kept our distance from — I could feel its fierce energy just from the way it stared us down.
Returning to camp, we were treated to the same delicious breakfast spread as yesterday, all while watching a massive herd of elephants at the watering hole. It’s always a joy to see these magnificent creatures in such large numbers. Afterward, I couldn’t resist a nap back in my tent — the early morning drive had left me feeling quite exhausted, but in the best way.
I wasn’t too hungry since I’d already had a large late breakfast, but the lunch was Greek-themed and absolutely one of the best meals of the trip—so I couldn’t resist! It included roasted lamb, a spinach and cheese pie, Greek salad, pita bread, hummus, and homemade baklava. What more could you ask for? After lunch, we had some downtime to relax before heading out for horseback riding at Lewa Wilderness Lodge in the afternoon. I’d visited Lewa with my parents back in 2009, and they have incredible horse stables for riding through the open savannah. It’s an experience I’ve done before, and it’s so much fun!
We arrived at Lewa Wilderness’ stables, and it was just as I remembered – a serene, wild place, where the horses are as much a part of the landscape as the animals we came to see. Once mounted, we set off, gliding through the savannah and getting up close with giraffes grazing, multiple water buck, playful baboons, an eagle soaring above, and impalas darting across the plains. It was such a peaceful ride, offering a completely unique perspective of the land and its wildlife.
After our ride, we returned to the stables and were delighted to find three baby horses, who were absolutely adorable. Their curious little faces melted my heart. We then strolled over to the lodge, where we took a picture in front of the very cottage we stayed at in 2009 – a lovely moment of nostalgia. Of course, we also had to stop by the best gift shop for a little shopping.
As we set off on our afternoon drive, I enjoyed a Tusker Lite beer while keeping an eye out for leopards in the nearby valley. Legei, our expert guide, spotted a jeep in the distance and noticed something unusual up in a tree. As we got closer, we saw it – a kill: an impala hanging in the branches, a sure sign that a leopard was nearby. And sure enough, there, high in the tree, was a mama leopard with her baby on the ground beneath her. A hyena lurked in the hedge, likely scavenging what it could from the kill. This was an incredibly rare sighting, especially during the day when the leopards were fully visible. I’d never had such an up-close encounter with these elusive creatures.
While we were all captivated by the leopards, our attention was momentarily diverted by a male giraffe in the distance. It was wobbling and kicking its feet, and we thought it might faint. But in a tragic moment, it suddenly collapsed, its neck jerking before it fell lifeless to the ground. We suspect it had been bitten by a snake. It was a sad and sobering sight, but nature’s cycle plays out in its own way.
Interestingly, the mama leopard in the tree noticed the downed giraffe. She left her perch and moved toward it, examining the giraffe for a while, clearly well-fed from her earlier impala kill. The baby leopard was nowhere to be seen, but we followed the mama leopard until the fading light forced us to turn on the spotlight. It was such an extraordinary and rare sight – a day full of moments that will stay with me forever.
By the end of the day, we had witnessed the entire Big 5 on this safari – elephant, rhino, buffalo, lion, and leopard – with all of them spotted right here at Lewa. It was an achievement I hadn’t expected but was beyond thrilled to experience.
Back at camp, we settled in for a delightful dinner. I sipped on a delicious amaretto sour while enjoying roasted pork with a perfect apple sauce, followed by homemade key lime pie made with limes grown in the garden. What a fantastic way to end an unforgettable day. With just one more full day left at Lewa, I’m filled with excitement for what tomorrow will bring.
Day 11: Last Day at Lewa: A Roar of Lions and a Serene Escape in Ngare Ndare Forest (Sirikoi Lodge)
Another early start today, with the usual 5:30 am wake-up call, followed by my favorite cornflake and raisin cookies, fresh fruit, and a steaming cup of tea to help shake off the sleepiness. We set off as the sun began to rise, heading towards Simba Ridge to look for lions. This was the very spot where we had our first lion sighting just a few days ago, and today, the lions didn’t disappoint.
Sure enough, we spotted several lionesses, a young male, and a cub nestled in the tall grass of the open savannah. They seemed content to lounge for a while, but then, like clockwork, they began to position themselves for a hunt. They were trying to circle some zebras in the distance. Though they weren’t successful, it was fascinating to watch them strategize, their movements slow and deliberate in the morning light.
Afterward, we headed back toward where we had found the lion cubs yesterday. To our delight, they were still there, eyeing a herd of eland in the distance. I couldn’t help but wonder if their mother had returned or if the cubs had been fed yet—they were still on their own.
We then retraced our steps to the area where the giraffe and leopard scene unfolded last night. The leopard was nowhere to be found, but the feast had certainly continued. A pride of lions had moved in, and a lioness and a young male were happily devouring the giraffe. Nearby, a male lion who had clearly already eaten was preparing for a well-deserved nap. In just three hours, we had seen three different lion prides in different locations—what a rare and lucky sighting!
Returning to camp for breakfast, we were treated to the same delicious spread as always—comforting and satisfying after such an eventful morning. We then set off for the Ngare Ndare Forest, where we met up with two rangers. Our first stop was a massive waterfall, followed by another, where we were encouraged to jump into the deep waters. The water was absolutely freezing and there was a rock wall to climb to get out, but the thrill of it was absolutely worth it.
Next, we made our way to the canopy walk, which is always a highlight. It’s like walking 4 stories above the forest floor, surrounded by lush green trees and the soft sounds of the forest below. I had done this walk back in 2017, but during our last visit in 2021, it had been closed for maintenance, so I was thrilled to experience it again today.
As we made our way back to the jeep, we were in for a wonderful surprise. A whole crew from Sirikoi had set up a bush lunch for us. The spread was incredible: warm chicken tikka masala, vegetable curry, rice, naan, salad, and a cheese platter—my absolute favorite. To top it off, we had a lemon and coconut tart for dessert, and our guide, Legei, joined us, making the meal even more special. It was one of those moments that reminded me just how fortunate we are to experience such surprises on this journey.
On the drive back to Lewa, we passed through a few local towns, and it was heartwarming to see so many children waving at us, testing their English by asking for chocolate or simply inquiring how we were. Their smiles and energy were a joyful contrast to the serene beauty of the safari.
Back at camp, it had rained a little—surprising, given the dry weather we’ve had—and Kiko the giraffe was waiting by the camp. I was able to get up close today, and it was an unforgettable experience. The gentle giant stood tall, looking at me with those soulful eyes, making the moment feel even more special.
The rest of the afternoon was quiet and restful. I spent some time relaxing, reflecting on the day, and packing up, as we’re heading to our last camp in the Mara tomorrow morning.
We arrived for dinner early tonight, enjoying cocktails and appetizers around the fire. I even learned how to make my new favorite drink—the amaretto sour! For dinner, we had a refreshing watermelon, rocket, and feta salad, followed by sirloin steak and ratatouille—my absolute favorite. Dessert was grilled pineapple with ice cream, and we were treated to some delicious carrot cake from a couple celebrating their anniversary.
Tomorrow, we get to sleep in a little before catching a morning flight to the Mara. It’s hard to leave, but our time at Sirikoi and Lewa has been unforgettable, and I can’t wait to return one day.
Day 12: Lion Encounters and a Feast in the Mara: Our First Day in the Mara (Mara Plains)
Today marked our last day at Sirikoi and Lewa, and I couldn’t help but feel a little sad to be leaving. The silver lining? I got to sleep in just a bit more—until about 7 am, which felt like luxury after so many early mornings. We learned that our flight to the Mara had been moved up by 30 minutes, but honestly, it wasn’t an issue. I was already up and ready to go.
Breakfast was a perfect way to start our final morning. I had a veggie, cheese, and bacon omelet with chilis, fresh blackberries, crispy hash brown latkes (the best I’ve ever had!), and warm blueberry muffins. It was the kind of meal that made me wish I could have it every day.
After packing up the jeep, we headed toward the Lewa dirt airstrip. Saying goodbye to our guide was a bit emotional—I had really gotten used to his stories and insights. We took off for our flight, which was about two hours long with a couple of short stops. It felt surreal knowing we were leaving Lewa behind for the next chapter of our adventure.
Our flight landed in Olare Motorgyi Conservancy, just outside the Mara Plains Camp, which is nestled near the Mara-Serengeti ecosystem. This area is special because it’s on a private conservancy, giving us the freedom to enjoy the wildlife without the crowds and restricted park hours. Plus, the conservancy is owned by the Maasai people, meaning we’re helping to support the community with every stay.
When we landed, snacks were waiting for us—just what we needed after the flight. Duncan, our guide, picked us up, and we immediately started seeing wildlife. A herd of zebras, hyenas (which is rare to see in the heat of the day!), and even two turtles mating at a watering hole. There were giraffes and antelope all around us, too.
Arriving at the camp was like stepping into another world. We crossed a wobbly bridge over a river to get to the main area, which was open-air and absolutely stunning. The tented rooms are beautifully designed and incredibly comfortable—truly a luxurious blend of nature and comfort. Mara Plains is a sister camp to Ol Donyo, where we stayed earlier in the trip, so many of the amenities felt familiar, but there’s a distinct vibe here, being so close to the Mara.
A lovely surprise awaited us: professional cameras and binoculars to use during our stay! Along with that, they gave us pretty tote bags to carry everything in. It’s those thoughtful details that make this experience feel even more special.
Lunch was delicious—chicken and veggie wraps in chapati, a local salad, green beans in lemon vinaigrette, and decadent passion fruit profiteroles for dessert. Afterward, we had a few hours to relax in our tents before heading out for the evening game drive.
After a hot afternoon, we set off for our evening game drive at 4:15 pm, ready to explore. We spotted a lioness near the camp, but as we got close, she disappeared into the bushes. Undeterred, we saw giraffes, water buffalo, zebras, wildebeest, topi, heartbeast, and even some hippos—though their smell was less than pleasant!
We then came across a group of lions—a mama lioness, a young lioness, and three young males—sleeping peacefully together. One of the males got so close to our jeep that our guide had to back up, but the lions didn’t mind us at all. It was magical watching them rest in such a relaxed state.
To make the moment even sweeter, we popped open some rosé champagne with popcorn and crackers, enjoying the lions and the stunning sunset behind us. Afterward, we headed back to camp, where we gathered around the fire for drinks before dinner.
Dinner tonight was in the library—carrot and turmeric soup to start, followed by sirloin steak with chimichurri sauce, vegetables, and risotto. For dessert, we had a rich caramel cheesecake. It was one of the best meals of the trip, and I went to bed full and satisfied, looking forward to the next few days in the Mara!
Day 13: Lion Encounters, Bush Breakfasts, and Unforgettable Moments in the Mara (Mara Plains)
Today’s adventure began with an early morning game drive at 6:30 am. It wasn’t quite as early as some of our previous drives, but it still felt like a peaceful start to the day. The camp sent us off with muffins, yogurt, and to-go tea, which was a lovely touch. We set out into the wild, ready to see what the morning had in store.
We came across several animals almost immediately—a massive hippo out of the water, gracefully grazing antelope, water buffalo, giraffes, and of course, lots of warthogs scurrying about. But the highlight of the morning was seeing four lionesses lounging under the trees, peacefully dozing. They seemed to be eyeing a group of warthogs in the distance, but the little creatures ventured too far out of reach. We also spotted a big male lion and a lioness sleeping in the bushes, though they were nearly impossible to spot at first.
By this point, it was time for a bush breakfast, and what a breakfast it was! Freshly cooked eggs, crispy croissants, juicy fruit, bacon, and sausage—served right in the middle of the wilderness. It felt both rustic and luxurious at the same time, and it definitely hit the spot.
After breakfast, we headed to the MAA Trust project, an incredible initiative that supports local communities. They provide education scholarships, women’s programs, and offer outlets for people to make traditional crafts such as beadwork and leather goods. It was inspiring to learn how the community is being empowered, and I couldn’t resist picking up a pair of handmade beaded earrings to support their cause.
Lunch back at the camp was another highlight—naan bread, peri peri chicken, maki rolls, and for dessert, coconut sorbet. And don’t get me started on the homemade mint lemonade… it’s quickly become one of my favorite drinks. I’m convinced Mara Plains might just have some of the best food I’ve ever had while traveling.
I took a quick nap in the afternoon and caught up on photos before heading out for the evening game drive. At 4 pm, we were treated to banana cake with caramel drizzle during tea time—an indulgence I didn’t expect but happily welcomed!
The afternoon drive took us in search of leopards, but we had no luck. We did, however, come across a large herd of elephants, complete with babies—a sight that never gets old. We decided to return to the area where we saw the lions earlier, and this time, the male lion and lioness were mating. It was such an interesting behavior to observe—apparently, this cycle lasts for about two days, and they’re very repetitive, mating every 10-15 minutes. I had never seen anything like it before!
Not long after, I spotted the four lionesses again, this time lying down and grooming themselves. It was such a serene moment, and we decided to enjoy sundowners in their presence—just watching them, the sunset, and the landscape unfold before us.
Back at camp, we gathered around the fire and I tried my new favorite drink: an amaretto sour. It was the perfect way to unwind after a full day in the bush.
Dinner tonight was truly spectacular. We started with crispy feta samosas, followed by a perfectly cooked rack of lamb with vegetables. For dessert—peach crème brûlée. Every bite was divine. I couldn’t help but feel a little spoiled by the luxury of it all.
Then it was off to bed since I was exhausted but looking forward to tomorrow. Another day in this incredible place awaits!
Day 14: A Safari Day with Lions, Leopards, and Cheetahs and the Circle of Life (Mara Plains)
Today’s adventure began with another early wake-up at 6:30 am, but the promise of black tea, almond muffins, and yogurt & granola waiting for me made it all the more delightful. The morning felt like a cozy start before heading out into the wild, and it wasn’t long before we were greeted by our first sighting—a few hyenas running, one of them with a leg likely from an early morning kill. The circle of life is always a humbling sight.
We then came across a male lion and lioness lounging in the grass, younger and different from the ones we saw yesterday. Their calm demeanor gave us a few peaceful moments to admire them before we moved on. The next surprise was a massive herd of elephants—our old friends from yesterday. They came so close to the jeep, and the sight of them up close never fails to amaze me.
But the real highlight of the morning? A cheetah! Hidden in the thick grass, it was a true treasure to spot. My heart raced as it stood up and started walking, giving us just enough time to scramble for the best viewing position before a rush of jeeps. It’s moments like this that remind me why I love safaris so much—every sighting is a thrilling surprise.
One of the things I absolutely love about both Ol Donyo and Mara Plains camps is their thoughtful touch on every outing. They always have a tin with a note from the chef, filled with snacks for the journey. Today’s goodies included mini blueberry muffins and walnut biscotti—simple, yet such a sweet gesture that makes the whole experience feel extra special.
As we kept driving, we spotted a leopard high up in a tree right on the border of our conservancy and Mara North. We could see about 15 jeeps lined up, all vying for a view, but we decided to hold off and come back later. Sometimes, patience pays off, and it did today. We kept driving and were treated to another surprise—a bush breakfast set up just for us. Chef Kelvin had sausage, bacon, potatoes, and omelets cooking, and there were muffins, waffles, and even champagne! It felt like a perfect little feast in the heart of the bush.
After breakfast, we went back to the leopard, and this time, the crowd had thinned out. The leopard was focused on a hyena on the ground below, but once it disappeared, the leopard locked eyes with us, and I swear I could feel the intensity of those deep green eyes. It’s hard to describe how special it feels to have a moment like that with such a majestic creature. It was crazy that we got to see the big cats (Leopard, Cheetah, and Lion) all in the same morning!
We also spotted hyenas with their cubs emerging from their den, and a newborn water buffalo struggling to stand, its umbilical cord still hanging. Duncan, our guide, said it was probably born this morning—such an incredible sight to witness the fragility of life in real time.
After all the excitement, we headed back to camp for a quick nap, and then it was time for lunch. We indulged in focaccia, chicken stir-fry, rice with broccoli, and a refreshing mango and cucumber salad. And for dessert? Passion fruit sorbet—cool and tangy, the perfect finish to a perfect meal.
With full bellies, we took some time to relax before the evening game drive. After our 4 pm tea, complete with pumpkin blondies and iced tea, we set off once again in search of more wildlife. It didn’t take long before we spotted a hippo in the water, and then, our focus shifted to crocodiles. We quickly found several basking in the sun and lurking in the water, their stealthy eyes watching us from a distance.
News then came through about another leopard sighting near where we’d seen one earlier in the morning. We rushed over, and there it was—a beautiful leopard, both resting and gazing from the safety of the tree. It seemed content to stay up there, but as we lingered, we got word that a young male and female lion were nearby, so we decided to check them out before circling back to the leopard.
Just as we were about to give up on the tree-bound leopard, it descended! The next few moments were pure chaos, but in the best way. A mad dash of jeeps followed the leopard as it walked across the plains, its movement graceful and swift. It even broke into a run, a rare sight that had everyone snapping photos and videos. We were incredibly lucky that the leopard felt comfortable with our jeep, as it passed by us on several occasions, mere feet away. We couldn’t believe our luck!
Eventually, we decided to pull away and give the other jeeps a chance to watch the leopard reunite with another one in the tree. The golden hour was fast approaching, and we found ourselves at a perfect spot for sundowners. We took in the breathtaking sunset while sipping on Tusker beer, gazing up at the sky where Venus, Jupiter, and Mars shone brightly. It was the kind of moment that made everything feel magical.
As we made our way back to camp in the dark, we encountered four hyenas quickly devouring a topi, and a few hippos casually strolling out of the water. It was yet another reminder of the untamed beauty of the bush.
When we arrived back at camp, the setting was pure perfection. Tables were set up by the big fire, illuminated by candles, making for a truly unforgettable dining experience under the stars. We indulged in tomato soup, succulent duck with vegetables, and a decadent cake with ice cream for dessert—what more could we ask for?
After dinner, I relived the photos and incredible moments of the day. As I reflect on our time here, I feel so grateful for the experiences and memories that will stay with me forever. Tomorrow marks our last day in the bush, and while I’m already feeling the sadness of saying goodbye, today has been nothing short of extraordinary.
Day 15: Elephants, Sunrises, and Sunsets: Our Final Day in the Bush (Mara Plains)
Today marks our last full day in the bush, and it’s hard to believe how quickly this incredible trip has gone by. We started with another early morning at 6:30 am for our game drive, but the promise of yogurt, granola, and those perfect pumpkin seed muffins made getting up a little easier. As soon as I woke up, I could hear the hyenas, their calls echoing through the morning air. Of course, they were right outside the camp, finishing off a kill from the night before. We couldn’t tell exactly what it was or who had made the kill, but we figured it was likely from the pride of lions nearby, which there were 9 of them. They were eyeing another potential kill on the other side of the river, getting close, but ultimately, they gave themselves away and missed the opportunity.
As we made our way out, we were treated to a stunning sunrise—hints of orange, yellow, and red painting the sky. It felt like the perfect beginning to our last day out here. We didn’t have to wait long for more excitement, though. We got to see another leopard, tucked deep in the bush, relaxed and content. It was amazing to see him so comfortable, just hanging out in his natural habitat.
Back at camp, we had a leisurely breakfast—eggs with a mustard sauce, cinnamon rolls, and fresh fruit. It was the perfect way to fuel up for the day ahead. After breakfast, I freshened up before heading to a presentation by the researchers from the Mara Elephant Project. They do such important work in protecting the elephants and resolving human-elephant conflict. One of the coolest things they shared was how they use drones that mimic the sound of bees to help control elephant movement. Elephants absolutely despise bees, so this technique keeps them away from human areas. They also use AI to capture photos of the elephants, helping track and identify them, which is just so cutting-edge and fascinating.
After the presentation, we had some time to relax before lunch—another delicious spread that did not disappoint. Today’s menu included a refreshing salad, Italian-style meatballs, and for dessert, caramel cheesecake. It’s safe to say that the food on this trip has been just as memorable as the wildlife sightings.
Following lunch, we had a little downtime to hang out in the tent, soaking up the calm before the next adventure. Then, we joined the Mara Elephant Project researchers to witness what they do in the field. I can’t think of a better way to spend our last full day in the bush than witnessing these incredible creatures in their natural element.
We headed out for our afternoon drive and, with a little help from the local cattle farmers, we were able to track down the elephants. It turned out they had traveled a good distance from where we had last seen them near camp. We spent time watching three different elephant families, one of which we’d come to recognize. The matriarch of this group stood out to us because she only had one tusk. We had the special privilege of naming one of the elephants, and we chose “Furahi,” which means happiness in Swahili. She truly looked happy, confident in her role as the leader, and completely at ease in the bush.
The researchers from the Mara Elephant Project are out in the field all day, closely observing the elephants and gathering valuable data. It was amazing to learn about their work—one researcher takes detailed notes, another tracks sightings using an iPad (which I got to try out!), someone else is responsible for taking photos to identify each elephant by their unique ear patterns, and another person drives. Watching their process and understanding how impactful this data is in protecting the elephants for future generations made me appreciate the significance of their work even more. They’ve been collecting data since 2021, and the impact in five years will be truly incredible.
After our drive, we returned to camp, and it was time to pack up. I spent a little time relaxing and reflecting on all the incredible experiences we’ve had here, knowing this would be our last night in the bush.
I made my way to the fire pit just before sunset, and the view was absolutely stunning—every color imaginable painted across the sky. I will never forget how beautiful the sunrises and sunsets are here in the bush, unlike anywhere else in the world. We popped open a bottle of Rosé Champagne to toast our final day on safari. For dinner, we were treated to a special experience in the Cheetah wine room (my favorite spot!). We started with mouthwatering beef and feta samosas, followed by creamy butter chicken paired with garlic naan—one of my all-time favorites. For dessert, we indulged in a decadent death by chocolate cake and ice cream, topped off with Amarula. It was the perfect ending to an unforgettable safari.
Our waiter, Naomi, shared captivating stories about her Maasai upbringing. She spoke with such fondness about her childhood and the strong sense of community she experienced. However, she also acknowledged that the modern world offers new opportunities, particularly for women, and the traditional ways of life are slowly fading. It was both beautiful and bittersweet to hear her perspective. It will be fascinating to see what the future holds in 30 years, as younger generations grow up with fewer traditional practices.
After dinner, I headed to bed, eager to sleep in a little on our last night in the bush, with the sounds of hippos and wildlife filling the air all through the night.
Day 16: Nairobi Highlights and a Bittersweet Farewell: Heading Home After an Unforgettable Safari
We were in no rush today, waking up at 7:30 am—one of the first times since we’ve been out here that I actually woke up with the sun already risen! It’s funny how the rhythm of the bush changes your sense of time. After packing up my room, I headed to the main area for a leisurely breakfast. The eggs benedict with a glass of fresh pineapple juice were the perfect start to my day. It felt indulgent, but in the best way.
Soon enough, it was time to say goodbye to Mara Plains. We crossed the rope bridge one last time, reflecting on how special our time at camp had been. The staff here made our stay unforgettable, and I couldn’t help but feel grateful as we loaded up the jeep for our last game drive.
While we didn’t spot any big cats today, we did encounter plenty of wildlife—zebra, warthog, topi, and giraffe. And, of course, there were plenty of “ALTs” (Animal Looking Things) along the way. It was nice to have one final opportunity to take in the vast beauty of the savannah before heading to the airstrip.
After a quick flight to Nairobi, we were met by Matthew, the same representative who greeted us on Day 1. He took us to the Karen neighborhood, where we had some time for shopping and lunch. We made our way to the Karen Blixen Coffee Garden, a lovely spot we visited back in 2021. The courtyard, with its views of the pool, was a perfect setting for a relaxed meal. Naturally, I had to try their Dawa cocktail—it was just as delicious as I remembered in the bush. For lunch, I went with the Butter Chicken, rice, and naan, which was absolutely amazing and just as good as I remembered.
With our bellies full, we headed to Utamaduni, a charming shop that holds a lot of sentimental value for me. My parents first visited it in 1995, I came in 2009, and then again in 2021, so it’s become a traditional stop during our trips. I picked up a few items I’d been eyeing and couldn’t carry on the safari—it’s always nice to bring home something special to remember the trip by.
Next, we had a surprise stop at Kobe Tough, a wonderful program that empowers women from the local community to create beautiful clay beaded items. They gave us a tour of their workshop, and even sang the traditional “Jambo Bwana” welcome song—luckily, I knew it from grade school and was able to sing along! It was so heartwarming to support such an amazing initiative. Their jewelry was stunning, and knowing that all the proceeds go to helping the organization made it even more meaningful.
Finally, we made our way to the Four Points by Sheraton near Jomo Kenyatta Airport. After going through friendly security checkpoints, we checked into our day rooms, where we could take a much-needed shower and repack our bags before our midnight flight home. It was nice to have a quiet place to relax and recharge before the long journey ahead.
As I sit here reflecting on the past two weeks, I can’t help but feel immense gratitude. Coming back to Kenya for my fourth time has been an experience I’ll never forget. The beauty of the bush, the warmth of the people, and the rich cultural encounters have left a lasting mark on my heart. It’s certainly not a farewell, but a “see you soon”—because I know this won’t be my last trip here.
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